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Tile Calculator

Work out how many floor or wall tiles you need for a room from its length, width and the tile size, with an adjustable waste allowance and boxes required.

Units
Room size
Tile size
Tiles needed
245
Room area
20.00 m²
Tile area
0.0900 m²
Tiles before waste
223
Boxes to buy
25

How to use

  1. Choose metric or imperial units.
  2. Enter the room length and width.
  3. Enter the width and height of a single tile.
  4. Set a waste allowance and, optionally, tiles per box to get the number of boxes.
  5. Read the total tiles needed and copy it.

About this tool

Show

Enter the room's length and width and the size of one tile, and the calculator divides area by area, adds a waste allowance for cuts and breakages, and rounds up to whole tiles. Give it the number of tiles per box and it tells you how many boxes to buy. Metric and imperial both work — room in metres with tiles in centimetres, or room in feet with tiles in inches.

Dividing area by area gives a lower bound rather than the answer, and the gap can be large. Tiles are laid in rows, and a row that needs a narrow strip along one wall still consumes whole tiles to cut from. A 3.2 by 2.7 metre room in 60 cm tiles works out to 24 tiles by area, but a grid of six columns by five rows is 30 — twenty-five percent more for the same floor. Reality usually lands between the two, because an off-cut from the left edge can often finish the right edge, but only when the leftover piece is wide enough and the pattern allows it. That is a large part of what the waste allowance is really covering.

Ten percent is the usual default for a straight lay in a simple rectangular room. Push it to fifteen for a diagonal layout or a herringbone, where almost every edge tile is a cut and the off-cuts are triangles that fit nothing else, and push it further for a room with alcoves, a bay window or anything that turns one straight edge into three. If a pattern has to line up across a doorway, add more still.

Two things to settle before ordering rather than after. Buy the whole job in one batch: tiles are fired in lots and the shade drifts between them, enough to see as a band across a floor when a later box is opened to finish a corner. And measure the tile rather than trusting its name — a tile sold as 60 by 60 is often 597 mm, sized so that a 3 mm grout joint brings the repeat to exactly 600. Using the nominal figure to plan a run of ten tiles quietly loses three centimetres.

Frequently asked questions

How much waste should I allow?

10% is a common default for straight layouts; allow 15% or more for diagonal patterns, herringbone, or rooms with many cuts around obstacles. The waste percentage is added before rounding up.

Does it account for the room shape?

It assumes a rectangular area from length × width. For L-shaped or irregular rooms, split them into rectangles, calculate each, and add the results. The waste allowance covers normal cutting around edges.

Metric and imperial — what units does it expect?

In metric, room dimensions are in metres and tile dimensions in centimetres. In imperial, the room is in feet and tiles in inches.

Does the grout line change how many tiles I need?

Yes, and in your favour: a joint adds a few millimetres to every tile's footprint, so a wall covered with 300 mm tiles and 3 mm joints needs slightly fewer of them than the bare arithmetic suggests. The effect is small on a bathroom and worth including on a large floor — but never subtract it from your waste allowance, since cuts cost far more than joints save.

Why do professionals order from the same batch?

Because fired tiles vary in shade between production runs, and the difference is invisible in a single box and obvious across a floor. Boxes carry a batch or shade code for exactly this reason. Order the whole job at once, keep the spares from that batch, and if you must mix, spread the second batch through the layout rather than tiling one area with it.

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