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Tilt-Shift / Miniature Effect

Fake a miniature-diorama look on any photo — sharp focus band plus blurred top and bottom, with optional saturation boost, all in the browser.

How to use

  1. Drop a high-angle photo (cityscape, market, sports field, train station — anything shot from above works best).
  2. Move the band center where you want the sharp area, narrow the band width, and push blur to taste.
  3. Tick 'Show band guides' to see the boundaries while tuning, then download — the guide is automatically hidden in the exported PNG.

About this tool

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The miniature-faking effect: a sharp band across the frame with everything above and below it thrown out of focus, which reads as a photograph of a model because that is the depth of field a macro lens gives. Set the band's position and width, the width of the falloff, the blur radius and a saturation boost, in either orientation, with an optional overlay showing where the band sits. Images larger than 1400 px on the longest side are scaled to that first.

What it actually does is render the picture twice — once sharp, once blurred at a single radius — and cross-fade between them per pixel, with the mix ramping linearly from sharp to fully blurred across the falloff. That is the honest limit of the effect: real defocus keeps getting stronger the further you go from the plane of focus, whereas here everything past band-plus-falloff is blurred by exactly the same amount. On a picture with a lot of depth, the far background will look no softer than the middle distance, which is the tell.

Two details of the compositing are worth knowing if the result looks off. The mix happens on gamma-encoded sRGB bytes, so the transition band comes out darker than physics would put it — averaging 0 and 255 gives the byte 128, which carries only 21.6% of the light, where a correct blend in linear light would land at 188. And the saturation boost, which applies only in the sharp zone and fades out with the blur, pivots on the Rec.601 luma weights: for pure green that grey point sits at 150 where the Rec.709 weights matching sRGB give 182, so greens shift more than a colour-managed editor would move them.

Finally, the output is fully opaque by construction. A transparent PNG will come back with those regions black, and a half-transparent pixel comes back at full strength, so this is a tool for photographs rather than for artwork with an alpha channel.

Frequently asked questions

Why does it look fake on photos shot from eye level?

Tilt-shift sells 'tiny model' because real macro photography has shallow depth-of-field — the brain interprets shallow DOF as 'object is small and close'. Photos shot at eye-level already match how our brain expects normal-scale scenes, so adding shallow DOF feels artificial rather than miniature-y. Top-down or high-angle photos work way better.

What does the saturation boost do?

Real miniatures are painted with vivid pigments and lit hard, producing punchy colors. Boosting saturation 15-40% in the focus band mimics that look. Set to 100% to disable, push past 150% for a stylized 'plastic toy' vibe.

Falloff vs band width — what's the difference?

Band width is the size of the fully-sharp region. Falloff is the distance over which sharpness transitions to full blur on each side. Wide band + narrow falloff gives a hard cut (more graphic); narrow band + wide falloff gives a smooth gradient (more dreamy).

Vertical orientation — when is that useful?

Portrait orientation works for street scenes shot from a balcony where the depth axis runs left-right, or for product photos where the focus is on a vertical strip down the center. Most landscape tilt-shift looks use horizontal.

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